Micro-needling is essentially derma roller, derma stamp and derma pen. To put it simply, it makes micro punctures in the skin which sends the body into healing mode. It induces the production of collagen and elastic, therefore ‘repairing’ the treated area.
There are a few well-known brands in the market, such as Nurse Jamie and Stacked Skincare that provide at-home-use micro-needlings which focuses on increasing the penetration of skincare product. Both brands have created shorter micro-needles about 0.2mm. These shorter needles equals no down time as the needles only reach the epidermal or at most the start of the dermal layer (depending on which area of the face- the skin under the eyes tend to be much thinner). Such tools are relatively gentle that they are safe to be used 3-5x a week.
Nurse Jamie’s Beauty Stamp would generally create less injuries as the stamping motion would be less abrasive to the rolling action.
Shorter lengths are not to counter blemish/ acne scars, fine lines, wrinkles, open pores, deep scars or hyperpigmentation. For such issues, you would generally need needles ranging from 1.0mm-1.5mm. I would generally not recommend anyone without a aesthetician license to use needles that are within the 1.0mm-2.5mm. This is because improper use of micro-needling may actually break down collagen, cause scarring/ hyperpigmentation, cause infection (if not sterilised properly) and the list goes on.
Needles which are 2.0mm and above should only be used on the body, where the skin are generally thicker, i.e.: thighs to counteract stretch marks. For at home use, it is still best to keep under the range of 0.5mm. Make sure to sterilised your needles with surgical spirit. Make sure that your microneedle is stored properly in a dry area. If your micro-needles ever gets blunt, please refrain from using them.
***Important: When using a dermaroller at home, make sure your skin has been properly cleansed (double cleansed). Make sure the dermaroller has been sterilised with surgical spirit, unless the roller is new and has a “sterilised” sticker/ comes in a sealed pack. Always lift the dermaroller every time you switch area/angle, as opposed to dragging over your skin. This would cause unnecessary tears/ scratches on the surface of your skin.
If you plan to start micro-needling at home, it is best to start off with the shortest needles you can find, and then work your way up to a 0.5mm maximum. Either that, or you could have a Dermapen treatment done at your local aesthetic clinic. Not only the needles are longer and are more effective at reversing the signs of aging/ scars, but because treatments are done by a properly trained professional, the possibility of any risk are zero to none.
Make sure that they have received proper training for the equipment. I don’t believe in being “too careful” which such treatments. I know there are a few clinics around where aestheticians/ facialists have not received proper training and are still working on this treatment. If in doubt, kindly ask about their qualifications/ training.
Dermapen’s precision is similar to the dermastamp. The only difference is that Dermapen is an automated micro-needling, which allows up to 2,600 micro-channels per second. It’s been said that it is much more efficient and less painful than traditional micro-needling. If needed, your aesthetician may apply numbing cream prior to having your treatment done. In addition, if dermapen is done by a medically trained professional, it can also be used in conjunction with PRP (platelet rich plasma) for the purpose of skin rejuvenation.
In terms of acne scars, some medical professionals have argued however that this treatment do not provide the same benefits as fractional laser does to stimulate collagen remodeling. However, I believe it is best to combine both laser and micro-needling to help with deep scars. I also believe that when done right, this combined with at-home microneedling can be a cost effective method to help with lessen the appearance scars/ pigmentation in the long run.
Here are some of the benefits of micro-needling:
- Reduce wrinkles and fine lines
- Shrinks the appearance of pores
- Increase the penetration of skincare product (especially true for shorter needles)
- Helps lighten the majority of scars (except for keloid scars)
- Helps lessen stretch marks
- Lessens hyperpigmentation
- Reduces age spots
- Reduces the appearance of scars (acne scars, light or deep scars)